Buenos Aires (part 6)

Friday 25th: Cristina had been away visiting Iguazu Falls on the northern border with her family. Today we caught up for the first time since her trip. We met at the Obelisk as usual, and talked to some street sellers for a while. One guy remembered me from an earlier day. Cristina said that the falls were incredible, and she had a great time! After wandering around, we stopped for lunch at McDonald´s. (Yup: it´s a global culture in many aspects. Did I mention I´ve had three conversations here via the Google Translate webpage - the exact same site I use frequently in Australia. The other person types in Spanish at their computer, and the translation - though far from perfect - promptly spits out for me. Or that many people here have Facebook also? A Lonely Planet guide somewhere mentioned the "universal uniform" of jeans and t-shirts.) She showed me pictures of the relatives she has met here - aunts and uncles, cousins, etc. She´s had a fantastic time, and has absolutely loved seeing them all. We talked about a lot of things, and I really appreciated this time with her.

Cristina wanted to get a tattoo, and we eventually found a place after asking many people (I would point out the most rugged-looking person I could see, and jokingly suggest she ask them!) I don´t have any tattoos, and have never seen firsthand anyone get one. She chose the words, "Do not fear, for I have overcome the world", to be written on her inner shin/ankle. Coincidentally, after failing to find a font she liked on the internet, she realised the font of the headings in the book she was reading was perfect! We visited the bank, and returned. I sat with her in a small room as the guy tattooed her. She showed some pain, but not that much. She later told me it hurt a lot, more than her other small tattoo(s)! She is a brave girl. We wanted to know the translation in Spanish, so we eventually found a bookstore and then a Spanish Bible, and the particular verse within it.

I wanted to tour the two palaces at Plaza San Martin, however we just missed both of them! We got talking to four homeless guys in the park by the plaza. Frankly I would have preferred to keep walking, but Cristina has a big heart. She got into what was apparently a caring, deep-and-meaningful conversation with the Italian (background) man. Another man was Guaraní, a large indigenous culture I mentioned previously as depicted in The Mission. I was interested to meet him. Though he clearly had some struggles in life, he exuded a sort of calm strength (I am not saying he is necessarily always calm). After we talked for a while, I wanted to take a picture of us all, but he resisted the most strongly, concerned about what I might do with the photo. I read soon after that indigenous people in particular often don't like their picture being taken.

Of the four, we particularly connected with Manuel, a teenager with German background. He was open and friendly. His mum died this year, as I remember, and his father kicked him out of the house. I bought him some food from the supermarket, and he chose a Coke, mate "tea" leaves, and a bag of sugar! I repeatedly refused to buy him alcohol. He ended up walking around with us. Cristina set up a Facebook account for him, while I toured the rail museum, engineers would love it. We walked for a long, long, time south towards San Telmo, because he wanted to come to Andrea's church with us. (Will Cristina read this? Chances are no. But no matter if she does). I felt frustrated inside because I couldn't communicate well in Spanish and felt a little left out, and at the incredible slowness of the walking. But I told myself to get over it of course, as Manuel had much more serious needs than I did. As I see it, it was about finding a balance between independence and group dynamics. Manuel's grandparents live in nearby Uruguay, and Cristina gave him the money for transport there to find work. We both hope he did that.

We stopped for dinner, but not at my por kilo place we had hoped for. We met a group of Aussies, including Rhys from Sydney. We mentioned we were going to church, and he asked to join us. I had no idea what to expect there. We found it, and a group of (mostly) men were sitting in plastic chairs inside the door. I enjoyed meeting and speaking some rudimentary Spanish with them. We all moved downstairs, where the coolness was a very welcome relief from the hot day. Everybody introduced themselves, including Rhys and I who knew enough Spanish to do so. A girl named Sonia led a Bible study. I sat next to Gladys, Andrea's friend who teaches English at a high school, who translated a little for us. Other than this segment, which was a little dull because I couldn't understand, I had a great time! I met lots of the men. Cristina told me she came down the stairs later and saw me surrounded by 4 girls, and I looked like I was loving it! I was friendly, and hung around long enough until, as usual, I was invited along to something else.

The girls from the church were heading out to a cafe. They dropped Andrea off. It ended up being myself, Sonia, Gladys, Vanessa, and another girl who studies English. Sometimes I sat there quietly while they talked in Spanish, but I didn't mind. Other times Gladys translated for us, or I attempted broken Spanish. They were incredibly fun girls, and I have a lot of respect for them. They give up their Friday evening to befriend homeless people, and they can also relax and enjoy life too. Sonia, a very happy person, hit me with a surprise question: "What are your three best points and three worst points?" I was very confused, not trusting how to take the question. It seemed too deep and heavy for people I had just met. I wanted to answer honestly, but feared that if I did the joke might be on me. So I gave a reasonably accurate answer, just not 100% open. It turned out the question was sincere, there was no joke on me. The girls answered it too. I asked if this was normal for Argentina, and they said it wasn't. They are not typical of Argentineans. Gladys said that in a bar, people usually just talk small talk, but these girls like to go beyond this sometimes to include more depth. I said that likewise, I was not entirely typical of Australians either. I am so much more open here. This is the real me, and I want to be more like this and people to understand that. I loved their question, it was just unexpected and I wasn't sure how to take it.

They ordered a platter of nibblies - meats, cheeses, etc. Though I had a fantastic time, several times I worried about my decision to go out and socialise with them rather than with Cristina, Manuel, and Rhys who were retiring for the evening. I was trying to see things from Cristina's perspective - what should you do in "girl world"? Do you stick with your friends, no matter what? I asked directly a few times if she wanted me to come with them. I figured that since I wasn't crystal clear about it, she would have to be direct in asking me. She said it was OK, and so I joined the other group. I have become incredibly independent in the way I socialise. I frequently turn up to places by myself, and get invited along to the next thing whatever it is. Though Rhys seemed a very trustworthy person, and Manuel too, I was concerned about my decision. They were trying to find accommodation for Manuel for the night. Cristina told me the next day that they went to the nearby plaza for a while. Manuel chose not to stay in any hostel, and walked away. Rhys went to his hostel. Unfortunately Cristina did not have enough money for a taxi, and so she waited several hours for a bus. Ugh! She didn't get home till 5:30am or something, and her mum and aunt were worried about her. They themselves didn't get home till 4am, so if Cristina had been earlier she would have had to wait anyway. Still, her aunt told me, via a translator the next day, to look after Cristina! I was very apologetic the next day, but Cristina seemed quite happy and I didn't detect any ill feelings, though she was tired.

I had gotten home around 4am. Vanessa and I joked that we had kissed each-other goodbye, on the cheek, at least 4 times that night! Numerous times someone was leaving, and she thought I was leaving with them, so kissed me goodbye. Everyone kisses so much here! Even when meeting a new person, usually you kiss them, even the guys! The 'mistaken goodbyes' thing had happened with Andrea's sister Ianina too.

(Other news I forgot to mention earlier: the Western journalist got kicked out of the hostel on Wednesday, as I recall. Pablo, the owner, asked him to leave. Earlier he had warned me not to lend any more money to him. I enjoyed this irony, because here was a Latin trying to protect me from a Westerner! Usually it is the other way around, Westerners warning other Westerners to be careful of (the small minority of) Latins who will rob you! Pablo believed his story at first, about being robbed and paying later. However he spoke to other hostel owners, who said they'd heard this story before. So Pablo no longer trusted him. He opined the journalist is "a good man", confirming my perception of as well. I also now assume the story was not true. I believe he is a decent person, but with a few people or life issues. (He told me of two wild adventures while traveling, but now he wishes to settle down and get married.)

For instance, he interrupts people very badly, and talks over the top of others. This is a pet hate of mine. I had listened patiently to him for a while, and was interested although getting tired of being cut off repeatedly. So I cut him off, as gently as I could while still firmly enough to be taken seriously, and said "I didn't finish what I was saying..." or something to that effect. The key point is, he was very respectful of that, and listened a lot better afterwards. Had he been a selfish, manipulative, or argumentative person, he might have taken this as "war". But he didn't - he respected my request.

He is an intelligent person, although it is not surprising a journalist would be well informed. I was pleasantly surprised with his knowledge of Christianity (mainly the Catholic church) in particular. He had interesting comments about various popes, Latin "liberation theology", and condoms in Africa. When he got kicked out, Pablo quietly asked me to watch my things to see he didn't steal any. I wanted to respect both Pablo's concern for me and the journalist, so I went to the room and made a show of tidying and packing my things, to let everybody save face. I got his email address, and emailed him saying not to worry about the money. I do not feel robbed in the slightest. Several times I offered to lend him more, but he refused - not the mark of a thief. He didn't spend much, and put the money to good use buying healthy groceries, and never alcohol or anything. He helped me out in little ways, like giving me his 10 trip train card (it was not the small monetary value, but rather the convenience that was the gift), pointing out the bookshops, and helping a little with my Spanish. I reflect on the experience 3 weeks later, I am very grateful for it, because it was unique, interesting, positive, and taught me something.)