Sunday 27 November 2011

Buenos Aires (part 2)

(Wed 16th: P.S. I felt I had some curious insights into friendships/relationships, but I won´t post these here.)

Thursday 17th contd.: I met up with Cristina, and we visited La Boca, which is the redeveloped port. The other side of the river had crisp modern office skyscrapers with shiny windows. We didn´t like this sight as much, because it was little different to home. There are restaurants around as well. Ironically these characteristics are shared by "South Bank" in both Melbourne and Brisbane also! A guy sitting on a bench near the water called out to us. He was drinking, and looked a little rugged, but nevertheless we stopped and chatted with him for probably a full hour. Cristina and him did most of the talking, and in Spanish. She has a real gift for connecting with people. He was cheerful and friendly. We also relaxed with a drink on the main street Av 9 de Julio, one of the widest avenues in the world (I love it!) I was tired, but felt good after this. Back home, my hostel was playing happy Western pop songs. Nevertheless it is fairly quiet overall, which I appreciated. I´ve had plenty of socialising, so did not feel like a party hostel.

Friday 18th: I have met lots of people, both in the hostel and randomly out and about. Most people staying here are Latins, with virtually no Westerners. I love this! I am here to get a different experience, not hang out with those closer to my own "kind". My aim is to meet local people and experience their life/culture. I expected that I might lapse by default into hanging out with (Western) English speakers but [writing a week later,] I think I was not optimistic enough! My Spanish has improved a lot and I am already successfully communicating in Spanish, albeit in an extremely simple, stilted, and limited way. I also expected I would feel mild loneliness while over here, and that lapsing into English would help me connect more with people to ease this. However, I have not felt even a tinge of loneliness or insecurity (I mean particularly about the unfamiliar environment) the entire time here! I´ve been having a blast. The people in the hostel are mostly from Argentina, Chile, and Colombia. Apparently universiy in Colombia is expensive, so many flock here to Argentina where it is free.

On Friday, I think I had breakfast with Cecilia, a biochemist whose uni studies took 11 years, including a PhD. Her English is unusually good, but I still have to make an effort to speak clearly with less Australian drawl, and also more slowly and simply. Also Jaime, who did lab work, and was a very friendly person but had little English. The three of us would often have (the complimentary) breakfast together at the hostel, which consists of croissants (I love the name, media lunas, literally "half moons") and bread rolls with butter and caramel spread, and coffee. I was a bit tired and had a quiet morning.

I found the music at the hostel very moving! I don´t know why, but I have experienced this before when travelling. I went to Plaza San Martín at some stage, where I was denied access to the two palaces (wrong day). The sun rays through the green leaves and purple Jacaranda flowers (the many Jacaranda trees in the city blend beautifully with off-white buildings) formed a beautiful picture. I saw the war monument, as well as the (war) arms museum. I stopped into a nearby Catholic church. A group of 8 or so people were sitting up the front chanting, saying the mass I suppose. I found the reverent sound hypnotically calming and relaxing, in contrast to the oppressive heat and humidity outside.

I think I headed north to the Recoleta district of the city, which is very ritzy. The crypts in the Cemetery of the Recoleta are extravagant. (However I was not in a good headspace, my thoughts being bombarded by some frustrations from back home. Yet I have already grown in this area this trip! See my comments about the Western journalist later.) Eventually I found Eva Perón´s resting place. She was married to former President Juan Perón, a colonel, and together they formed a very prominent political team in Argentina´s history. There are huge outlines of their faces on a building in the main street. She was played by the singer Madonna in the musical film Evita. I went inside the adjacent church Nuestra Señora del Pilar, including its small tower. A shopping mall nearby was ritzy even by Australian/US/European etc. standards! I was very tired and headed home.

Into the Wild

Concluding the "safety theme", I had an interesting discussion with Monica who works at the hostel. She is from the Czech Republic, but has lived in Spain and Latin America for 7 years! She is fluent in Spanish, English, and obviously Czech, if not more. She said that when travelling in Brazil, some Brazilians were very worried about her travelling to certain more remote, beachy areas. When I travelled into inland China with friends from Hong Kong, these friends cautioned me strongly about rural parts of China: "Don´t wear an expensive watch, because sometimes they´ll cut your hand off just to steal your watch!" The question is not whether this has ever happened at least once, rather it´s whether this is a significant concern which should thus be presented to tourists. "Trust the locals" is generally the way to go. But there are overly-cautious locals too, in every country. I´ll conclude this little rant by sharing a story which touches both sides of the issue.

Into the Wild is a book and movie which incredibly inspired me. The subject of this biography is an adventurous, altruistic, and intelligent young man named Chris McCandless who was disillusioned with society. He spent a couple of years travelling the United States and Mexico, having fascinating experiences. He left a very deep impression on the new friends he encountered. Sadly he met his demise in remote Alaska, after surviving alone there for over 100 days. Though he was a little underprepared, he was also highly unlucky. Bad things do happen. Chris was overly idealistic apparently, and also could not reconcile with his family, unfortunately. But his fascination for freedom, his appreciation of nature, his likeability and altruism were deeply inspiring and moving for me before I started my own trip (though I intend a different ending!) He had a revelation that nature alone doesn´t cut it, because "Happiness only real when shared." His farewell note was, "I have had a happy life and thank the Lord. Goodbye and may God bless all."

Wednesday 23 November 2011

Safety

Regarding safety, my perception is that South America is not so dangerous as many Australians imagine. I suspect the truth lies in the middle: that it is more dangerous than Australia, but less dangerous than many people´s perceptions. I formed this view from speaking to numerous Latins in Australia this year, including my Peruvian housemate Imanol, and also experienced Aussie travelers, particularly my housemate Andy. My guidebook concurs: "Generally speaking, most places in South America are no more dangerous than any major city in Europe or North America... If you are aware of the dangers, act confidently and use your common sense, you will lessen many of the risks." (So it is as much about ´street smarts´ in general than it is about continental differences.) I love this tidbit: "When you set out, err on the side of caution until your instincts have adjusted to the customs of a new culture."

A Columbian in Brisbane told me I´d be safe in the cities, but not the rural areas, of his country (so even in what Australians perceive as the most dangerous country here, the cities at least are safe?!) We picture dangerous cocaine barons, but apparently this perception applied more to the 1990s. My guidebook says the drug trade and guerrilla warfare do persist, yet "Columbia is rebuilding its position on the tourist circuit." "Travellers confirm that the vast majority of Colombians are polite, honest and will go out of their way to help visitors and make them feel welcome." It does give detailed specific cautions also, including regions to stay away from. (I already have 3 different friends I might visit in Columbia! The locals know best.)

I got tired of people telling me before I left, "Oh, be so safe, be so cautious, be careful!" They mean well, yet I find this over-emphasis on fear and worry to be repressive and uninspiring. If others must offer such unsolicited advice, I would prefer more balance, e.g. "Oh you´ll have a fantastic time! Be bold and adventurous, but take sensible precautions in doing so because there are dangers." I naturally experience little to no fear regarding my personal physical safety, however I do want to be sensible. (Thus I decided against traveling by motorbike, also because navigation and resting would be challenging. I also decided against attempting Aconcagua, the highest mountain in the world outside the Himalayas, an extreme undertaking. Because it requires minimal mountaineering skills - it has been called the highest non-technical mountain in the world - it draws people like me who like a challenge but are inexperienced and under-prepared. Some people die on the mountain, or lose a few extremities. Instead, I am still excited about tackling some lesser peaks later, like inactive volcanoes, in a guided tour.) Full credit to my family, by the way, for supporting my adventure!

Buenos Aires, Argentina (part 1)

(The Spaniards were travelling for Shandy CruzCampo TV. Apparently, this is an internet TV show promoting a beer+lemonade product made by Spain´s largest beer company. The pair (Marcos has the shaved head, the other - Pedro - is the analytical talent) won a competition to go on this trip, paid for by the company. They had their skateboards at the airport, on which they´re collecting stickers from every country they visit.)

We finally boarded the plane around midnight. I was given a seat with extra legroom - in fact I could fully stretch out my legs under the next seat (just)! My seating companion was Uruguayan (?) but lives in Australia. I slept surprisingly well. Because we flew east, the night-day cycle went extremely quickly, completing a full cycle during the approx. 10 hour flight. We had crossed the International Date Line, the first time for me, and so it was still "Tuesday" locally. We disembarked to a slow queue, I paid my US$100 (a "reciprocity fee" because that´s what Australia charges Argentines and they kindly return the favour). I took a private bus to the city centre, which was pricey by local standards. Because of the language barrier I didn´t know what was happening when we disembarked unexpectedly at their terminal, but then they efficiently organised complimentary lifts to our individual destinations. I checked in to my hostel near the city centre at around 10pm I recall. I had made it! I went for a walk outside, and randomly ended up at the 67m Obelisk in the city centre. The streets were busy with people. The back streets felt somewhat dodgy, and while I was well aware I was in a new and uncertain environment, I wasn´t worried.

Wednesday 16th: I woke up at 6am, which is early for me, but normal enough, and was stoked with my lack of jetlag! I had a very productive morning answering emails and planning, while others slept. I met my Australian friend Cristina at the Obelisk in town in the afternoon. It was an amazing coincidence that we had independently booked flights to Buenos Aires for the same time! She arrived before me, and has 3 weeks here visiting relatives with her mum. What makes it even more unlikely is a fluke that I ran into her unexpectedly just two weeks earlier, and we discovered each-other´s travel plans! I had visited Melbourne, a long way from my home in Brisbane, and saw her at Revive church! It was great to have a friend here, particularly one who speaks Spanish and is good company.

We walked to the San Telmo area, which has beautiful buildings. ("With its elegant architecture and fashion-conscious inhabitants, Buenos Aires is often seen as more European than South American", according to my guidebook, the South American Handbook. Published since 1921, my copy is the 87th edition! A classic, it claims a more "alternate" travel experience. Future quotations will usually be from this book.) I describe the city as "ruggedly beautiful". The European-style buildings are beautiful, many with the charm of a weathered facade, but there are many unappealing buildings also, with blockish air conditioners protruding from every room of a high rise, which drip water onto the footpaths below. My first impression when I arrived was the frequency of mid- to high-rise apartment buildings, very unlike Australia where these are concentrated in the city centres, and also of rubbish in the streets. There is wide variation; overall though, I love the city!)

We hung out with Cristina´s acquaintance Antonio, who was selling his wares on the footpath by the Plaza Dorrego. He was a fun and outgoing person, who said he loved his work and the streets. He sold, like many others, cheap jewellery he made from semi-precious stones and nice twisted wire, as well as those braided wrist bands, etc. I initially assumed this was a lie, that the goods were really cheap imports from China, but it is true. The three of us sat on the footpath by his wares, and chatted and shared a few bottles of Quilmes, a popular local beer. He spoke a little English, more than most. After a few hours, we visited his apartment, a tiny single room and attached bathroom. It was messy and poor, but a fantastic local experience because we lived the life of a street vendor for a few hours! He is Peruvian, and looks (South American) Indian. He also introduced us to "Maria" and another. I was separated from them for a while, found them again, and went home later.

Thursday 17th: My hostel was booked out, so I had to change. I chose one near San Telmo. It was a hot and tiring walk with my pack. I didn´t find it at first, and some random people I asked didn´t understand me, but eventually I found an internet cafe to search for answers, then found the hostel. Though I knew things would work out fine, I had felt stressed and tired. The entrance is pretty obscure, and a strong metal door stays locked and is only opened by the receptionist. They want to look after their guests, which is also in their best interest to receive favourable reviews.

Saturday 19 November 2011

New Zealand

I arrived in Auckland, losing a few hours from time zone differences. I was very tired, but managed to bus and walk to my hostel with no dramas. The city looked a lot like Australia, I thought. I was unimpressed at first with the city centre. I splurged on McDonald´s comfort food (shame!) At night I walked around the harbour, which is nicely redeveloped with cafes, bars, and restaurants. One building complex on the wharf is even shaped like a ship! The Sky Tower and Casino are a major attraction. I read my Bible, restarting a neglected practice. I am wearing my Christian ring to remind myself of this identity.

Sunday: I slept late, and felt better. At the airport I learned my flight to South America had been cancelled. The airline put us up at the Holiday Inn which was nice, with a buffet meal and incredibly soft and comfortable bedding, but being near the airport it was isolated. I watched TV for hours. At this point, a personal laptop would have been handy for planning and cancellations, however I deliberately chose not to travel with one. I want to spend time with people and also my thoughts on this trip, to be confronted more starkly with "reality", not be glued to a screen. "Fasting" from food has been a spiritual discipline for aeons, I am fasting from electronica (OK, not entirely!) I reflected on certain friendship challenges.

Monday: We were delayed again! It turned out some workers for our airline, Aerolineas Argentinas, had striked. This situation was highly ironic, because just two weeks earlier Australia´s national airline Qantas had similar dramas, and I thought this wouldn´t affect me because I fly Australia´s budget carriers instead! Many pssengers were put up at the Stamford Plaza in the city. After boarding the bus, it turned out there were three too many people, but everybody wanted to stay in the city. Eventually one girl offered to change, and then another two girls offered to share one room, but there was still one person too many. It was hard for the poor airport employee organising everything, so I asked the guy across from me if he wanted to share a room. "Ian" turned out to be a very intelligent and multilingual Brazilian, who has studied International Relations (appropriately enough) in several different countries.

The bus driver told us we were lucky - he couldn´t even afford to take his wife to this hotel for their wedding anniversary! The buffet meals were exceptional, and ironically many of us were wearing thongs (flip flops) to this white tablecloth affair. I explored, and everything flowed incredibly smoothly. I walked out the hotel, walked down to the river, inquired about ferries and jumped on one just as the boarding finished, and headed to Devonport. It was the "North Shore" and reminded me of Sydney´s North Shore - both are wealthy and leafy. Colourful, immaculate gardens framed the houses. The beach was pebbly but I had fun climbing over rocks. North Head is one of many old volcanic hills in the city. It is a national park or war memorial, with mowed green grass and many historic cannons and bunkers. These are not fenced off like many equivalents in Australia, and many underground tunnels crisscrossed between them! I highly recommend this boys´ paradise! I walked back quickly, cold by now from the strong wind, just as a ferry arrived, and I walked into dinner just in time. My exploring "flowed" amazingly well. I ate with Ian, and had a good chat later too.

Tuesday: We waited outside at 1pm for the bus to take us to the airport. We had been in limbo, but finally discovered we would depart that night. The queue was incredibly long and slow - I got through around 6:15pm, after many hours! But I had a great time, because I met "Pedro" who taught me to solve a Rubik´s Cube. He is an analytical "freak", as his friend Marcos remarked. The pair are travelling the world for six months for a TV program from Spain. Pedro worked for an equivalent of Facebook in Spain, and later starts work with Google. With his help, I solved the puzzle three times during our massive wait, with growing independence each time. He wrote down his personal algorithm, which took 1.5 A4 pages in my book. He claims he does not remember ever reading other sources for help (although he might have), and was very young when he learnt to solve it. I am the first person he has taught since he was little. Working from his notes, I solved it just as I reached the front of the queue. By now, after several hours, others were watching and congratulated us!

We still had hours to fill in. I bought Pad Thai with my meal vouchers, and joined the Spaniards and their (new) friends, three Brazilian girls including two Marcos was flirting with. I was glad to meet more Latins. Our flight ended up departing at midnight, over two days behind schedule. I felt we all had a bond, because we were in the same predicament and you kept seeing the same faces. Though I had four wasted nights - I wanted to get to South America - at least I felt very refreshed and I had time to practice Spanish. Though I had attended a course at uni, I had not done any homework and had a lot to learn!

Australia

My trip started on Friday 11th November, 2011, which was busy and stressful in the rush to get ready. I left Brisbane for the Gold Coast, where I had to spend the night to catch my flight the next morning, only to discover the last connecting bus had left 30 minutes earlier. Another man, Wayne, was in the same predicament, and offered to share a taxi. He was a resourceful person, and not afraid to speak his mind, complaining about the exhorbitant $100 fare he was quoted for his destination across the border. I thought of the work of Annette Lareau, a sociologist I recently read about in the book Outliers. She distinguished two types of people: in part, those passive in the face of authority, and others who view authority figures on a more even level. I thought about this a lot.

They dropped me off, but Wayne wouldn´t accept any money from me! I found the hostel. I was worried I wouldn´t wake up early enough to catch my flight, and the manager didn´t do wake-up calls. Yet the very first person I asked in the foyer (Chris) turned out to be from the same dorm room, and even the same bunk bed as me, and set an alarm! The Curious Case of Benjamin Button was showing on TV, an unusual movie which I find very moving. The protagonists share many different types of "love" throughout their entwined lives: innocent child friendship, adult lovers, and finally caregiving. There are brief shots of Benjamin (Brad Pitt)´s epic and exotic travels. Like the movie, I´m seeking life-changing friendships and novel experiences.

I slept terribly, from adrenaline and Chris´ snoring, which sounded like his own throat was strangling him! I had a fresh realisation about an area I could mature in. I woke early, before the alarm, and made it to the airport with plenty of time to spare.

Saturday 12 November 2011

Beginning

I'm an Australian travelling South America for nearly 4 months, solo.

My main aim is to connect with interesting people, and seek life-changing experiences. My curiosity about the continent comes from my perception of its unique culture, particularly the expressiveness of the people. I will be sight-seeing also. I have a rough itinerary (to stay active, so I don't miss any festivals or sights) but am very flexible.


My favourite, crazy, random experiences on previous trips (twice to Asia and once to Europe) have often been when I've split off from my travel companions and met fascinating locals: climbing a rock on a Greek island, eating at an officer's table in a Cambodian naval base, and walking (and running!) on a frozen lake in China watching local fishermen. Travelling solo will push me to meet people, and should make it easier to be approached also.ust easier to be approached, more randomness, motivation to meet people for the company etc.